by Norm Rasmussen, Torne Valley Climbers Coalition

Rock climbing is an option for the more adventurous in the park.

DISCLAIMER: Rock Climbing is an inherently dangerous activity. The only way to ensure safety while rock climbing is to receive proper instruction from certified guides and professionals. The Torne Valley Climbers’ Coalition and PIPC are not responsible for your safety while climbing at the Powerlinez and you are solely response for your safety while technically climbing rocks.

As winter finally releases its relentless grip on the Hudson Valley, Harriman springs to life. The sweet fern and rhododendron fields sparkle green. Fragrant herbs, crushed under foot by hikers from all over the region, grow abundantly and add a layer to the already amazing atmosphere that Harriman offers to so many. As if hiking and backpacking, paddling and swimming, weren’t enough – rock climbing is also an option for the more adventurous in the park.

This may be new information to some. Thanks to the efforts of a small group of climbing activists called the Torne Valley Climbers’ Coalition, a section of Harriman State Park has been opened to allow people to do technical rock climbing.  This area on Wrightman’s Plateau is called the Powerlinez and is accessible via a trailhead on Torne Brook Road, in Suffern, New York

For climbers everywhere, this is a huge win. Here’s why: the New York State Park system has generally been pretty closed to climbing. The laws created around climbing were based out of fear – climbing is dangerous, so let’s not allow it at all.

Since then, no one has stood up to these old laws and any climbing that has taken place has been, for all intents and purposes, illegal.

Since the advent of rock gyms and increasing news coverage (such as that of the Dawn Wall in Yosemite), climbing has exploded in popularity.  Instead of making a bad name for climbers by climbing illegally, small LCOs (Local Climbing Organizations) have stood up around New York to help the Palisades Interstate Parks Commission and State Parks system realize that gear, knowledge and overall safety have come a long way.

There are currently 4 Local Climbing Organizations based around New York – Torne Valley Climbers’ Coalition, Gunks Climbers’ Coalition, Thacher Climbing Coalition and Upstate New York Climbers Access Coalition. Despite all the work these organizations are doing, there are only two climbing areas open in state parks in New York – Minnewaska (GCC) and Harriman (TVCC).

Between these two, only one is free. That’s right: The Powerlinez.  

The TVCC wants to keep the Powerlinez open. The climbers want to keep it open. With a new guidebook slated to release within the next couple weeks, we are anticipating a growth in traffic in the area. Here’s what’s required:

• A waiver must be signed, free of charge.  These are located at Rock and Snow in New Paltz, or The Gravity Vault Indoor Rock Gyms in Upper Saddle River or Chatham.
• The parking area is located on Torne Valley Road before Torne Brook Road next to a chain link fence that has a sign “W-4” on it. Please park there, hood of the car facing in, and perpendicular to the road (see photo below).
•  While there are some sport climbs in the area, these were grandfathered in before the area was open in 2013.  NO NEW BOLTS ARE TO BE ADDED OR CHOPPED. This is an item that can really make or break an area, so please do not condone any bolting.
• The trails for the Powerlinez Climbing Area on Wrightman’s Plateau are not a back door into Harriman.  None of the trails connect to the trails on the top of the Torne, so please don’t create new ones!
• Please be respectful of the trails! Stay on established trails and use the trail map in the guidebook app to find your way around.

Note: to download the guidebook you must first download the rakkup app on your smart phone. Once downloaded, sign up with a new account and find “Powerlinez” in the store. You can purchase it there. Hint: Buying it directly from the rakkup website is generally cheaper.

Those are a lot of rules. Don’t let that dampen your spirits.

The Powerlinez is a really cool area. The rock is gneiss, similar to Adirondack style rock. Due to its unclimbed nature, some of the rock can be friable, but most is rock hard and sharp – be sure to tape up! This area has some really tall boulder problems or really short roped routes; you just need to choose how scared you want to be. Where this area really shines is in its boulder problems. There are some true gems with fantastic movement, exciting moves and great holds.

Climbing is supposed to be fun and to be enjoyed with others in a social, fun, supporting environment. We can all enjoy this resource more by following the rules and respecting the area we have access to. The Powerlinez has only been open for two years – an infant in terms of climbing areas – and it will take many more for it to be considered a stable area with good stewards maintaining it by the PIPC.

Just remember, the more we maintain this area, the better chances we have of more areas open around Harriman.  If you’re anything like me, you love Harriman.  It’s my second home and a place that I feel I can walk her trails and I know her – and she me.

If you have that knowledge of Harriman and you’re a climber, then you know of just how much it offers in terms of climbing. Let’s keep fighting the good fight and show New York State just how responsible climbers are.

More Powerlinez Resources:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/thepowerlinez/: General Facebook page for Powerlinez; good, active place to post if you’re looking for climbing partners.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/thepowerlinezbetashed/: Discussion on Route Development.

Gravity Vault: Local resource for Powerlinez waivers, guidebook and climbing wall; three locations (with two more coming: Middletown, Chatham NJ, Upper Saddle River.

Appalachian Mountain Club: Supporter.

Getting There:

The Powerlinez Access Path
Intersection of Torne Brook/Torne Valley Rd, Ramapo NY.

Driving from New York City or New Jersey or PA: Go to the giant interchange of routes NY Thruway 87, 287, and 17 near Suffern NY. Exit onto rt 17 North, which immediately goes into a traffic light. Turn sharp Right on rt 59 South for about 0.5 mile. Just after curving left, up and over railroad tracks, turn sharp Left onto Torne Valley Rd (Rockland County rt 95) and go about 1 mile generally North with some curves, past the recreational center.

Driving from NY state coming from the North: NY Thruway (I-87) south to exit 15A for rt 17 North + rt 59, Sloatsburg + Suffern. Exit to the right, go 0.1 mile curving right to reach a T intersection. Turn Right (NorthEast) and go about 0.2 mile to another T intersection. Turn Right (South) and go about 0.4 mile. Just after curving left, up and over railroad tracks, turn sharp Left onto Torne Valley Rd (Rockland County rt 95) and go about 1 mile generally North with some curves, past the recreational center.

Park by some 10-15 ft wide wire fence enclosures (sometimes called “the vents”) and a green manhole cover, on the left (west) side of the road.
GPS latitude longitude approx (N41.1415 W74.1618)
This is about 100 yards before (south from) the left turn for Torne Brook Rd. If you reach the entrance for the waste management facility on the right, you’ve gone too far.

Walking – From the parking, walk north 100 yards on Torne Valley Rd.  Turn left (West) on Torne Brook Road, and walk 50 yards across new bridge over creek. Turn right (North) onto dirt road uphill.

If you have any questions or would like to get involved, please contact Norm Rasmussen at norman.rasmussen@me.com.